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This is Gardenweb, not arboristsite or forestryforum. And it certainly isn't hotsaws. Consider the target audience - homeowners, landowners, part-time and occasional saw users.
For this audience there is no reason to need to buy magnesium-cased pro saws. Most folks who come here can easily meet their needs with homeowner- to mid-grade saws.
Echo is not at the front of the pack in terms of product development, but their products are durable, reliable, and up to the task of regular use. Their design philosophy is different from many of their competitors, and if your needs happen to match their design philosophy then theirs is the saw for you. For most homeowners, personal firewood cutters, and ranch owners, there is an Echo saw out there that will meet their needs perfectly.
And Dolmar has been around, and in the US market, forever. For most pros, it is the lack of stocking dealers for Dolmar products that prevents wider adoption. Performance and durability are not the limiting factors. No, Dolmar does not yet have a real widespread pro fan base but that is changing daily, so it is a matter, once again, of what the pros use. This I know firsthand. You are talking out your behind when you compare it to the , where did you read this?
The fact that you made that statement proves to me that you have neither a or a to compare it to. I own a few s, several s, two s and did own two s. I do however feel that they are a fine saw, but yet to be proven for durability. The s' air filtration, anti-vibe, and ease of servicing are superb" More bunk The is stronger than either the or when stock, but it also cost more.
The does not hold a candle to the xp OR the , which I also happen to own both of. The is a strong 3 cube saw, not some sort of engineering miracle. I will agree that the has a slight performance edge over a stock , which btw is 9 cc smaller, and a stock , but it will not run with a , albeit it is very close. My will eat the for breakfast and has eaten many s built by various individuals.
Keep in mind that my is not a full on race saw either, simply woods modified. The added displacement, which puts the in a different class, will mush the when modified. The , which I also have, is better left un-spoken of, lol. I have hosted several races and attended many others and inexplicably the has not dominated as it must where you are. I just threw in the stuff about the modded saws because I wanted to give as complete a picture as I could when I saw that computeruser was referring to racing saws.
The mufflers on the s are way too stiffling. Not that most people even care about racing saws, but then noone wants to have a slow, or underpowered saw either. I assume that people want saws that pound for pound compare favorably to the competition. BTW Steve, I had a few Echos built in the 80s, in the early 80s, and the 50cc model was the EV which compared quite favorably to the Stihl which was very popular at the time.
It had no chain brake but otherwise was on par technologically with the other good saws on the market. Then Echo went through a reorganization, their saws became gray and atleast a third cheaper, and they never visibly advanced beyond the early eighties features or design.
For example, I have "white fingers" from years of saw operation and I cannot run one of the Echo tophandles for more than a few minutes before I am in danger of dropping it. If in this day and age now that we know better and have other choices, if you still feel the Echo is satisfactory, more power to you. Buying any cheap power tool is false economy, especially if it can have potential health effects. This sounds like the same old Ford versus Chevy flame. First off I have been cutting firewood for over 30 years.
I am not an arborist or in the business. I have 3 chain saws and one is a new Husky , which is plenty big for felling trees, but to heavy to buck and trim with 4 hours at a time. There is no reason to use a larger saw for this purpose. I cut 50 to 70 foot trees and there's lots of smaller twigs to cut off. The Echo weighs 7. I am not saying it's a professional saw and could care less what the pros use. What I really wanted to know is how to cut off the tabs on the carb, they are flush with the carb, and is there a special tool to adjust the carb?
I will do a lot of cutting with this saw and have had a number of other saws over the years so I will write an honest opinion of the If it's a dog I'll say so, but I won't pretend just because I bought it it's the best.
I use wood to heat all winter, so it will get plenty of use. So if it has a weak link I'll find it. As far as vibration is concerned it seemed very smooth to me, no worse or better than my Husky. I can say that the chain and bar that came with it look like a toy, but I new that before I bought it. Certainly both running a 20" bar buried would be a different story, but given the circumstances of the video, the shows it to be nearly as fast as the and perhaps worthy of the title "fastest stock 50cc saw available".
BTW, when shopping for my Christmas saw, I bought the over the or any other saw in the cc range. So Roland, you getting the information you were looking for? This thread is just about getting to the place where some of us are popping up a batch of popcorn so we can relax and follow the action. I had a Husqvarna 55 and when it was time to replace it, I wanted something a little lighter.
I was thinking about moving up to a Husqvarna XP, but ended up buying a Shindaiwa , which about split the difference in price. No regrets on the Shindaiwa. Lighter and easier starting than my Husqvarna, and pulls an 18" bar about as well as my 55 did a 16" bar. Hey, just popping in to check the progress of this thread before heading to the Great White North for some business and pleasure today. They should be able to stand up to the sweeping that kills alot of lesser saws although I did outfit one of them with the fully adjsutable carb.
Redmax is also making a very good product and they can be bought very competitively. I think the 60cc model is the and surprisingly a stock one did cut almost neck and neck with a new that we tested against. It was fairly smooth as well.
Another thing, the chain comparison. The Oregon that came standard on my s was 33sl which is darn near impossible to make cut real well because of it being semi chisel with some rather large bumper links.
To categorically say that Stihl chain cuts better than Oregon based solely on a comparison between SL chain and Stihl PM is either being deliberately blissfully ignorant or displaying an agenda. This is a comparison of apples to "road apples".
Yes Stihl chain typically has thicker chrome than a similar style Oregon or Carlton chain which will make it stay "sharp" longer, but they are also typically much more expensive and harder on files, so what is a better chain deal? Another thing regarding Carlton Woodsman Pro vs Oregon. Carlton chain seems to lack a crisp working corner on the chisel chain. Sure, someone will say that "Hatchet Jack Mr.
The other Northern California guy who is known for building consistently faster chain uses Oregon chain. I know this because both of those guys and I have spent a fair amount of time discussing chain and swapping pictures and I have run both of their chains.
Yeah, apples to oranges when talking about work chain to race chain, but that is my point in even coming to this forum. Too many parrots go to the other forum and read and subsequently take out of context what they have read then come to forums such as this and repeat it as gospel.
I also support Butch, Fish, and canguy for being pretty knowledgable, but calling them oracles? That's interesting. Shellbark's post and my response to it are gone, so barbwire's response doesn't have any context. I guess maybe there is a monitor on this board. Had the Dolmar dealer been willing to negotiate like my Stihl guy, things might have been different. Granted I was still paying quite a bit more for the no matter how I slice it, but to me it was more a matter of principle.
You nailed it though, if the saws were cutting bigger wood the would be clearly stronger and faster. If I said that the has a free speed of 14, rpm and the has a free speed of 13, rpm, does this make the the faster cutting saw under real world conditions? Of course not. Take a good look at one sometime. Yes I know that this is a minor detail, and more than likely purely asthetic, but if that is their standard "fit and finish" in areas that I can readily see, what is on the inside?
The balance on the Dolmar also makes it feel noticeably heavier than a , I compared them side by side yesterday, and since the is more a peer of the than the I feel that this is a more relevant comparison than one made to the Apples to apples right?
I tried it again to be sure, and it's working for me. Download PDF Manual. The PDF manual has diagrams and acurate information to help to troubleshoot, repair and fix the Echo chainsaw. View free page images online or download a PDF manual that you can easily save, print or view on most devices.
Specification, Technical data, Torque limits, Special repairing materials, Service limits. General adjusting rules, Presetting idle adjust screw, L mixture needle and H mixture needle, Adjusting carburetor. See the additional carburetor manual, parts list, operator manual and technical supplements PDF download available on this website for more information on servicing and repair of the chainsaw. Rotation: Clockwise as viewed from the output end Displacement: cm3 in3 Tank capacity: cm3 U.
Start engine and run for several minutes to reach operating temperature.
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